My process for remodelling jewellery
June 10, 2024

My process for remodelling jewellery

by Sue Lane

Jewellery remodelling, reworking or upcycling are all terms used for the same process. Simply put, taking your sentimental jewellery, removing any stones or diamonds and reworking the metal into any of my designs. 

What's your process for remodelling jewellery?

The first part of the process is to have a no obligation chat. This can be face to face in my jewellery studio in Herefordshire or in London. I also offer Zoom, Teams or FaceTime chats too, which work really well. Re-working your jewellery requires you to tell me what you would ideally like to have and wear, and then I can look at what we are working with and suggest what would work best.

Removing and assessing your jewellery



Once the design has been confirmed and I have received your jewellery, I will take a good look, test the stones, measure them, weigh the gold, check the metal quality and then come back to you and confirm all the details are as expected. Often at this point, if we are unsure about the finger size, I make "rough" silver mock up of the design in your finger size and post it to you. Once you have worn the sample for a few days we can be sure the size is correct. This process is sometimes repeated several times until we are totally certain we have the size perfect.

Preparing your jewellery



Firstly I dissect your jewellery, removing stones, cleaning and assessing them. Once out of their settings I can check they are strong enough to use again, measure the size and weigh them. All those details are added to the design. The metal is cleaned and weighed ready to be re-used.

Creating the metal or sheet

At this point I then melt and re-cast your gold to make the jewellery. The first stage is melting the gold and casting it to make an ingot. From here I use a rolling mill to make the ingot into wire, similar to the dimensions I need to create the piece. If I am making a two band ring I need to do this twice. If there are settings and loops, these need to be cast separately too. This is a labour intensive part, but really enjoyable.

Constructing the pieces



Once I have the raw materials and settings made I work them in much the same way as if I am making a commission with new metal. Shaping the metal, soldering it to form the piece, and setting the stones. Some pieces may have between 5 to 20 solder joints depending on complexity, so it can be challenging, and sometimes it needs several attempts to ensure the design looks how I visualise it to be. A small tweak here or there is make or break.

Finishing the remodelled piece

What does jewellery remodelling, reworking, upcycling or reworking mean?

The last stage of the remodelling process is to work on the metal until there are no marks on the surface, and then I can beginning polishing or matting the piece to make it look beautiful. This is the dusty, dirty part -  it alway looks worse just before it looks amazing!

…and finally!



Once the remodelled jewellery is finished it is photographed and then prepared to be posted or collected in a lovely box wrapped in ribbon, with a little hand written note from me.


FAQ's about the remodelling process

 Can you change the shape of my stones?  Generally speaking no, they are often cut into that size and shape for a reason. If you have a stone that has a lot of surface wear, I can have it refinished by a stone cutter in Birmingham Jewellery Quarter. However, if the edges are broken or damaged or if it has a fracture or crack, sadly the stone can’t be used.
 Can you change my yellow gold to white gold?  Unfortunately not. I can scrap your yellow gold and buy new white gold, but I can’t change it to white. Likewise, I don’t rhodium plate yellow metal to make it white as it wears off very quickly and soon becomes a murky colour.
 Can you re-work platinum?  In the majority of cases, unfortunately not. The temperature needed to melt platinum is too high for a small studio like my own. However, if you have a plain band I can sometimes re-work it by rolling and shaping rather than melting and recasting it.
 Do you supply additional stones or metal if needed?  Yes of course. I use a few trusted stone dealers who ensure the stones are ethically sourced.
 Can you do a valuation once the piece is finished?  I can put together a valuation for your finished piece for your insurers. I can also recommend a specialist jewellery insurer too. Please note that I will only undertake valuations of my own work.
 Can I see examples of your jewellery remodelling?  Yes! I have a dedicated main jewellery remodelling page with a wide range of before and after examples of projects that is updated regularly.
 Can you replicate/copy other makers designs?  Absolutely not. Under no circumstances will I work to other makers designs or styles. I only remodel into my own designs that you can see on my website.
 I have a different question...  If you have any further questions about my jewellery remodelling please do get in touch.